The fundamental process on which the whole terrarium works is evaporation. Water is added to the soil and then the plants take it in, and then it passes out of the plants. The water evaporates and the process starts again.

Because the terrarium has to be in indirect sunlight, it could be placed in direct sunlight if the container is tinted glass. If you do place it in direct sunlight, install a small thermometer inside to ensure the temperature doesn’t get too high. A good glass container is ideal, although plastic could also be used.

Because of the fact that it is a closed environment, smaller plants are better suited to the cramped space inside the container. Cacti can be grown inside, although these don’t really need a contained eco-system to survive. Ferns are excellent for this, but make sure any plant you use isn’t diseased, as bringing a disease into the terrarium could be fatal for all your plants. If you want the best effect, using tropical plants are brilliant, as 7you can create a “jungle in a jar”!

In the bottom of the place 3 centimetres of pea gravel. On top of that add 1 centimetre of charcoal shavings, and then fill the rest with a well-draining, neutral pH soil. Plant the roots shallowly in the soil, and then fill in the hole.

Then you will need to add water. Add a small amount at a time to prevent over watering, as this could kill the plants in such a contained environment. Prune the plants regularly and remove any diseased or dead plants. Leave and enjoy!

When you buy an orchid, a hybrid breed orchid is recommended as these are much hardier, and will last longer than a purebred wild species. Phalaenopsis orchids are easier to grow than others, so this is a great starter plant for people who are orchid novices to try out. Most orchids like a small amount of water, and the soil around the roots to be kept mildly moist, but check the care label on the pot when you buy an orchid.

Because there are so many different breeds of orchids, I will describe how to grow the Phalaenopsis orchid, which is much easier to grow than most others. The Phalaenopsis orchid prefers indirect light in the shade. It should be kept at around 20 degrees Celsius at all times, although this can drop to about 15 at night. When potting it, use nitrogen rich compost and during growth use a nitrogen rich fertiliser. Every year while it’s not flowering, it’s advisable to change its soil and repot it. Use bark chippings for drainage at the bottom, as this helps to fertilise the soil as well.

All orchids are individual, so make sure you don’t throw away the label your plant came with. All different orchids need a different amount of light; so before you buy one, ensure your house can provide the light it needs.

The Balanced Aquarium: Once very common, aquariums like this are rare these days. Before modern filtration devices were invented, this was the only means of keeping an aquarium. Usually equipped only with aeration or a simple power filter, a balanced aquarium has many plants (or lots of photosynthetic organisms in a marine version), and very very few fish, so that all of the nitrogen produced by the fish is used by the plants (or algae and corals in saltwater). An example of a balanced freshwater aquarium would be a 55 gallon tank, heavily planted with only about twelve small to medium fish. This does not satisfy most aquarium owners who usually want a lot more fish in their aquariums.

Sponge Filters: These are simple air or water pump operated filters that drive water through a porous cellulose sponge which is a great media for cultivating beneficial bacteria. These filters are typically used in smaller aquaria, or in breeding tanks where they do not pose a danger to tiny baby fish that might get sucked into larger filters.

Large Power Filters: Before the invention of the undergravel filter, people used large, bulky power filters to cultivate beneficial bacteria. These original power filters were gigantic, compared to the modern hang-on power filter. Some were as large as twenty four inches across, and held up to a gallon or two of water and filter media. They used glass filter wool as the media to cultivate bacteria, which was usually layered with charcoal (We didn’t have activated carbon back then.). Most of the larger power filters are now obsolete. The Supreme AquaMaster series of filters are one of the few existing mammoth power filters available today. Ironically, the Supreme PowerKing and SuperKing, no longer manufactured, were the original U.S. made, gargantuan power filters used in the 1950s, and we wish that Danner manufacturing would bring those bad boys back! (Hint, Hint Mr. Danner!) Please do not confuse old-fashioned hang-on filters with the smaller modern power filters in use today. Modern power filters with their small cartridges, foam pads, and spinning or whirling gimmick devices, will never be adequate for proper biological filtration, in spite of the misleading and exaggerated claims made by some manufacturers.

Under-Gravel Filters: This was the first true biological filter invented for the aquarium. The gravel in an aquarium is suspended above one or more plastic plates, which are equipped with “lift tubes” that extend vertically from the bottom to the water surface. Air is pumped into the bottom of the lift tubes and rises up the tubes, carrying water with it. This causes water to flow down through the gravel and up the lift tubes back into the aquarium. Instead of air, power heads may be used to drive the filter. Power heads are submersible pumps that are mounted at the top of the lift tubes and pump water directly up the tubes and out into the aquarium. Power heads are a much better means of operating an under gravel filter, increasing flow by several hundred percent.

Many folks mistakenly think that undergravel filters are obsolete. However, when it comes to freshwater aquaria, nothing could be further from the truth. We solve many people’s water quality problems by advising them to install an undergravel system, when the only filter they have is a small power filter on their freshwater tanks. Undergravel filters are inexpensive, and though they require monthly vacuuming of the gravel, most aquaria need this anyway. They do a great job in freshwater tanks. In saltwater aquaria, which has much lower levels of dissolved oxygen, undergravel filters should not be used, as the submerged aerobic bacteria in the gravel are competing directly with the fish for oxygen. It was this fact, that led to the invention of the wet-dry filter in the 1980s. The use of aerating power heads helps eliminate this problem to some extent.

Canister Filters: Although canister filters are designed primarily for mechanical and chemical filtration, many people are using them these days as biological filters. They will hold enough media to support a good population of beneficial bacteria. However, they have the same disadvantage as an undergravel filter for marine aquarium use, in that the bacteria are fully-submerged, and so are competing for oxygen with fish in the aquarium. Many models come with a spray bar return, which if placed horizontally just above the water surface in the tank, will help to re-oxygenate the water.

Notes on Prefilters Used for Stand-Alone Wet-Dry & Berlin Filter Systems:
Water is fed into wet-dry filters and Berlin reservoirs from a separate “overflow prefilter,” which may be built-into the aquarium (called a “reef-ready” aquarium) or purchased as a stand-alone unit which hangs on the back of the aquarium.

Built-in prefilters are the best type, as there are no siphon tubes involved which can sometimes collect air, stopping the siphon action, which will cause the aquarium to over-fill. This is called “breaking” the siphon. With a built-in design, water overflows into the prefilter from the surface of the aquarium, is pre-filtered through sponge elements, and feeds via gravity, directly into the filter below the aquarium.

Hang-on prefilters usually consist of two parts, the actual prefilter box that hangs on the back of the aquarium, and a “waterfall” collection cup, which goes inside the aquarium. The two parts are usually connected using nylon bolts and nuts. On most models, water overflows into the waterfall cup from the water surface in the aquarium. A siphon tube delivers water from the waterfall cup inside the tank, over the side of the aquarium, and into the prefilter box. The water then passes through a sponge prefilter element, and feeds via gravity, into the filter below the aquarium. Some hang-on prefilters are of the “continuous-siphon” type. These prefilters actually have a built-in channel which allows the water to travel over the side of the tank without using a removable siphon tube. This prefilter design greatly reduces the chances of the siphon action breaking, either from collected air or when the filter pump stops.

Wet-Dry Filters: Wet-dry filters are typically rectangular acrylic or glass reservoirs that sit below the aquarium. Most are divided into two basic sections, the “wet-dry” chamber and the “sump.” Some wet-dry filter models may also have additional sections or chambers for in-sump protein skimmers, de-nitrification systems, canister filters or for pre-filtration of the water.

The wet-dry chamber houses the biological media on which bacteria cultivate. Biological media used in wet-dry filters can vary widely. The types of media used include plastic ball media, DLS (Double Layer Spiral) material, sintered (porous) glass, and many others. Although some media are better than others, all have one thing in common, and that is high surface area for bacteria cultivation.

The water entering the wet-dry filter usually feeds into an area above the wet-dry chamber, equipped with a trickle plate. The trickle plate is a piece of plastic or acrylic, with many uniform small holes drilled into it, through which the water passes. This is why wet-dry filters are sometimes referred to as “trickle” filters. The trickle plate forces the water to be delivered uniformly to the wet-dry chamber, so that it passes through all areas of the biological filter media. Water collects under the wet-dry chamber, and then passes through a baffle which usually has some form of chamber for chemical or sponge media. The baffle also serves to eliminate air bubbles. After passing through the baffle, the water flows into the sump, where it is then delivered back to the aquarium by the filter pump.

Hang-On & Integrated Wet-Dry Filters: Some wet-dry filters are designed to hang on the back of the aquarium. These are useful only for smaller aquaria, or in situations where there is no space below the aquarium for a true wet-dry filter. In most designs, more than half the media is submerged, which is a major drawback. They also do not have the capacity of a normal wet-dry, and usually include built-in protein skimmers that do not work very well. Some aquarium manufacturers build tanks with a built-in wet-dry filter inside the tank against the back panel of the aquarium. These integrated filtration systems (IFS) work identically to the hang-on wet-dry filters, but have the advantage of having no siphon tubes or waterfall cups, so the look is cleaner.

Berlin Systems: A simple definition of a Berlin system is a wet-dry filter without the wet-dry chamber. These systems are designed without an area for holding biological media, so they are more or less a large open sump or reservoir. Designs vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some include a built-in prefilter. Many also include built-in protein skimmers, canister filters, chemical media chambers, sensor probe holders and other features. As the main purpose of a Berlin Reservoir is to supply a means of using an efficient protein skimmer, the other features are simply added bonuses. A Berlin reservoir may also be as simple as a small aquarium tank placed below the main aquarium.

Fluidized-Bed Filters: Fluidized-bed filters are a very unique biological filter. If properly designed and built tall enough, they have the ability to cultivate not only aerobic nitrifying bacteria, but also facultative anaerobic denitrifying bacteria. This means they may have the capability to remove not only ammonia and nitrite, but also nitrates. They usually consist of some type of column chamber which houses several cups or more of coarse sand or similar media. Water enters at the bottom of the filter and exits at the top. There is usually a control valve for regulating water flow. A check valve is usually placed on the filter intake to prevent the sand from packing-down when the filter is turned off.

Because water flows upward through the filter, the sand in the filter becomes suspended or “fluidized” in the water column, forming a fluidized bed of sand. If the flow of water is controlled properly, the sand does not flow out of the filter, but remains suspended. This happens because the flow of water is just fast enough to keep the sand in suspension. The weight of the sand prevents it from escaping the filter. Because the sand is suspended in water, fluidized-bed filters are self cleaning, and require little or no maintenance.

The water at the bottom of the filter is fresh and high in dissolved oxygen, so aerobic bacteria cultivate in the bottom half of the sand bed, and remove ammonia and nitrite, using up oxygen in the process. In taller fluidized-bed filters, enough aerobic bacteria cultivate in the bottom half so that as water flows past them, they remove most of the oxygen from the water, so facultative anaerobic bacteria cultivate in the top half of the sand bed where they remove nitrates. Not all fluidized-bed filters are tall enough to promote anaerobic denitrifying bacteria, but most are very efficient at cultivating beneficial aerobic bacteria.

Some fluidized-bed filter designs are stand-alone units that are too tall to be placed under an aquarium in a cabinet stand. These are actually the best designs, but are not practical for most aquariums. Other fluidized-bed filters are designed to hang on the back of an aquarium or sit in a reservoir, and may be driven by a small pump or the return line of a canister filter. These types of fluidized-bed filters are an excellent way to provide biological filtration on an aquarium equipped only with a canister filter.

Plenum Systems: Describing a plenum requires far more than just a single paragraph. The plenum method was discovered by Dr. Jean Jaubert and is often referred to as the Jaubert System. “Plenum” refers to an un-oxygenated layer of water trapped beneath a deep layer of gravel or sand at the bottom of an aquarium. This layer of water becomes anaerobic. Bacteria cultivate in this oxygen-free environment and remove nitrates from the aquarium. There are several variations of the plenum, depending on what literature you read.

The basic structure of the plenum system is essentially a deep (3″ to 4″) layer of gravel, suspended 1/2″ to 1″ above the bottom of an aquarium. It is usually recommended that very little or no water flow should be directed across the gravel surface. A basic plenum may be created by suspending egg crate material or under gravel filter plates above the aquarium bottom, using inert supports such as PVC pipe. If egg crate is used, it is covered with nylon screening over which the deep gravel bed is placed. The actual materials, including what grade of gravel or sand is used, vary depending on what literature you read, but usually coarse live sand, fine coral gravel, or a combination of both are used. One technique is to use 2″ of live sand on the bottom, over which nylon screening is placed. The screen is then covered by 2″ of fine coral gravel. This allows the aquarist to turn over the top inch of gravel occasionally to clean it, without disturbing the anaerobic layer below.

Anaerobic bacteria form in the bottom depths of the substrate and in the water below. As anaerobic bacteria cultivate, they remove nitrates. Anaerobic action produces a fair amount of heat. The heat warms the water layer below the gravel. The warmer water flows upwards, displacing cooler water above the gravel. This action moves water through the plenum at very slow rates. The slow movement of water through the gravel helps to prevent dangerous hydrogen-sulfide gases from forming in the plenum. The deep gravel bed also provides a home for burrowing motile invertebrates which feed on solid organic mulm and detritus. These burrowing animals, which are either purchased and/or cultivate on their own from live rock, serve to keep the plenum porous and aid in the slow movement of water through the system. “Burrowing” sea cucumbers that serve this function well may be purchased from a good aquarium store.

The aquarium is stocked with live rock, but not as much as is typically used. The live rock construct should be suspended above the gravel bed, allowing water to move freely beneath the reef. This may be accomplished in a number of ways. One way is to place a couple of “anchor” pieces on the gravel bed, and glue others to the back of the tank using aquarium epoxy putty (not silicone!). The rest of the live rock may then be bridged across these supports to build the reef, but not too high. The construct should be loose, not tightly packed together, to allow good flow through the rock. Care should be taken not to direct flow from pump returns across the gravel. The emphasis in aquariums using a plenum should be on the reef, with a minimal number of fish to balance the ecology.

The Jaubert Plenum System, if constructed properly, can work well, provided the aquarium is only lightly-stocked with fish. While we are sure some hobbyists would disagree with us here, we feel that more research is necessary on this fascinating subject. The original plenum method used aeration as the only means of water movement in the tank. We highly recommend that a plenum be used in conjunction with a Berlin system. The protein skimmer will remove other dissolved and solid organics, not removed by the plenum. The use of a protein skimmer combined with the plenum method may be the key to keeping more fish while using this type of biological filtration. If you’re setting up a new aquarium, installing a plenum will be relatively easy. If you have an existing reef tank, installing a plenum will involve a fair to major amount of work. Definitely read up on the subject before you go to work.

In the days that follow, the person then proceeds to purchase the flashiest, coolest looking fish in the store, in mass quantities no less; never bothering to consider that a fish is not a fish is not a fish, or that the little tank that they just bought definitely has a limit on how many and what kind of fish can be put in there. Simply put, fish, like dogs, grow to be different sizes and have very different requirements. It’s only after a problem arises in the tank that they come one of the many forums on the internet for help, but, by then, it’s usually too late. The remedy to this problem is simple…do your research before making any purchases.

Many experienced aquarists attempt to blame the people that work at the fish store or chain store that sells fish, but, in reality, shouldn’t it behoove the person that ultimately wants to be a pet owner to do a little independent research into the requirements of the pets that they want to own?

I know that fish store employees could often times do a little better job on many occasions in assisting a new hobbyist, but the prolific amounts of information available to the modern aquarist in the form of libraries and the internet means that personal responsibility has been elevated to a new level. No longer can we say that the ability to be educated before making aquarium purchases is limited to “the few” that managed to get a job selling fish. This information is there for anybody and everybody.

Given these facts, how many tragedies could then be avoided? It staggers the mind to realize that, in this case, a little knowledge truly could go a long way. There would be far less “trade-ins” at the fish store for fish that have outgrown tanks. There would be significantly less fish deaths from overcrowding, stress related aggression, water parameter incompatibility, and tank size deficits in relation to fish size. The pitiful stories that are repeated over and over again, ad-nauseum, on many forums would cease to be told. Best of all, the fish would receive the proper care that they deserve; it would only be a win/win situation.

The most important thing for a person considering becoming a fish keeper to do is research. If you have a computer “Google” is an excellent place to start. Enter the words “aquarium help”, “fish tank help”, or “aquarium advice” and many great websites come up that will steer a new hobbyist in the right direction. If you don’t have a computer, then there is your local library that will allow you to check out many books on fish and fish keeping absolutely free of charge.

In doing fish research, the following things need to be taken into consideration:

• The stocking rules. Take the surface area of the tank, which is the length times, the width and divide by 12. A typical 29-gallon tank, for example, has a length of 30 inches and a width of 12 inches, so, 30 X 12 = 360 and 360 / 12 = 30 inches of adult fish. This is roughly the number of inches of basic community fish that your tank will comfortably accommodate. A 20-gallon long tank will accommodate the same fish load since it has the same surface area, but a 20-gallon tall will not. These rules do not apply to all fish equally because some fish, due to their behavior and habits, need more room.
• The adult size of the fish. Some fish may start very small as babies in the store, but they can quickly grow to massive proportions that will far outstrip the capacity of even a fairly large tank. Several examples include, but are not limited to, the common plecostomus, the silver arowana, the red-bellied pacu, and tinfoil barbs. Realize that the myth “the fish will grow to the size of the tank” is just that, a myth. A fish’s internal organs will continue to grow long after its body becomes stunted by the release of growth inhibiting hormones. This results in a painful, slow death for the fish.
• The territory requirements and swimming level of the fish. Many African and South American cichlids are very messy eaters and very aggressive toward other fish and need a lot of room with caves and rocks so that they may establish territories. Also, fish inhabit different levels of the tank. There are top swimmers, mid-level swimmers, and bottom feeders. One should try to avoid purchasing too many fish that stay at one particular level. The goal should be to spread the fish out evenly between the levels.
• The needs of each different type of fish. Ignore the “accepted wisdom”, which is almost always misinformation, and pay attention to the minimum tank requirements and water parameters for the fish you want to keep. For example, goldfish are very messy, get quite large, need cooler temperatures, and live a very long life if cared for properly. Despite what is commonly depicted, a goldfish will not fare well at all in a bowl. One goldfish needs at least 30 gallons with each subsequent goldfish addition needing an additional 10-15 gallons each, and they also need very good filtration. Perhaps one of the biggest misconceptions is that goldfish can be mixed with tropical (warm water) fish. This is not the case, and, eventually, the different temperature requirements will result in a shorter lifespan for either the goldfish or the tropical fish. Likewise, African cichlids need very hard water with a high pH and many South American cichlids need softer water with a fairly low pH. These things need to be taken into consideration when choosing tank mates.
• The aggressive tendencies of each fish. Not all fish are community fish that play well with others. Some fish that appear friendly, such as tiger barbs, can be quite nippy towards tank mates, especially those with long, flowing fins, and ends up killing the fish in the tank with them. Many cichlid species are very aggressive to just about any fish put in the tank with them, especially other cichlids.

Basically, if a person will do some basic research into aquaria and the types of fish that are available and that they are interested in keeping there are no excuses for not properly caring for our fish friends, and many tragedies and fish deaths can be avoided. Buying a fish tank should not be an impulse buy, but a well considered, well thought out decision that can bring many years of joy if done correctly.

Clown Fish are commonly found in the warm waters. The Pacific Ocean, the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean are some places where Clown Fish abound. The peculiar name of the fish comes from its cheerful coloring and its active disposition. Many people mistakenly believe that the Clown Fish is really fooling around with all his antics. But, in reality the Clown Fish is an aggressive fish and they are very territorial. They go to great lengths to protect their territory.

The most common home for the Clown Fish is among the tentacles of the Sea Anemone. It’s a curious quirk of nature that the tiny Clown fish is able to live without getting stung by the tentacles of the Anemone. The fish actually uses the Anemone to save it from predators. The fish continuously loops through the waving tentacles of the Anemone and is moving around all the time. It is believed that the Clown Fish develops a kind of slimy covering around its body that helps it to withstand the Anemone’s stings.

The Clown Fish is dependent on the Sea Anemone for its daily bread. After the Anemone paralyzes and eats a fish, the Clown fish will polish off the remaining uneaten bits and pieces. In return, the Clown Fish helps to keep the Anemone free of dead tentacles by eating these. The Clown Fish also helps the Anemone get food by using its bright coloration to lure unsuspecting fish into the vicinity of the Anemone. This symbiotic relationship with the Anemone makes the Clown Fish one of the most curious creatures living in water.

A little known but fascinating ability of the Clown fish is its ability to switch sex. This Clown Fish Fact makes this fish even more of a rarity. On the top of the hierarchy is the reproducing female followed by the mating male. Below them are a bunch of non-mating males. But, if the female dies, the whole hierarchy gets disrupted. The predominant male then morphs into a female and chooses a partner from the various non-mating males.

Clown Fish form a very strong bond with their mates. They lay their eggs in large batches. These eggs are laid on a coral or a rock adjacent to the Anemone. Both the parents then guard these eggs for a span of 3-5 days. Once the eggs are hatched the male may stay to take care of the young till they reach sexual maturity.

Clown Fish are usually not eaten by other fish because they are kept safe by the stinging tentacles of the Anemone. Since they live within the quiet corners of the Coral reef they were never hunted. But recently, these fish have become very popular inhabitants of salt-water aquariums. The colors, the antics and the beauty of this fish have fascinated men. They are especially sought after in Europe and the United States. Many Coral reefs have been destroyed in order to procure prime specimens.

Rearing Clown Fish in aquariums have met with spectacular success. It is not necessary to keep the Clown Fish with its host Anemone. It is difficult to care for the Anemone. The various species of the Clown Fish should not be mixed. They are generally very peaceful, but may become territorial and fight. When they are born, all Clown Fish are males. As they grow, the predominant male will morph into the female, and this fish will be the primary defender of the territory.

Although it’s rather unattractive, algae is not “dirt”, but a primitive form of plant-like life. Green and some brown algae growth is normal and natural and occurs in nearly all aquariums. Like plants, all species of algae need light, water and nutrients to grow. Since an aquarium provides the water, we’re left with two factors that you can control to prevent the rapid accumulation of algae. These are: the amount of light the aquarium receives; and the levels of nutrients dissolved in the water. There are also tap water pretreatment, filtration and sterilization methods that can tremendously reduce the growth rate and accumulation of algae.

Lighting:
Limiting the light that the aquarium receives is the most important factor in controlling algae growth. If an aquarium is near a window, algae will grow faster, even if the aquarium does not receive direct sunlight. Leaving the aquarium lights on for more than eight hours a day can also cause rapid algae growth. We suggest that the aquarium be placed as far away from a window as possible. If an aquarium must be placed near or facing a window, blinds or drapery should be kept closed during the day. The aquarium lights should not be on for more than ten hours a day. Fish require no less than six hours of light every day in order to manufacture vitamin D. They also must have consistent lighting, with the lights coming on and going off at the same times every day.

We recommend that the tank lights be controlled by a timer. It is ok to adjust the aquarium lighting to coincide with your schedule, so you can enjoy the aquarium when you’re home, provided the lighting time period (photoperiod) is always consistent. If the light timer is set to come on in the afternoon, and go out late at night, the amount of ambient daylight the aquarium receives should be limited by closing blinds or drapes during the day. The light timer should be set to come on an hour before you get home, and to go off an hour after you go to bed. The aquarium lights should never be set to come on and off more than once a day. Please remember that fish should be fed twice a day. Fish will not feed in a dark aquarium. If the lights are set for an afternoon/evening cycle, feed the fish once when you get home, and once again before you retire for the evening.

Nutrients:
Like any plant, algae require food to survive. The three main nutrients that algae need are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In an aquarium, these nutrients come from fish waste, uneaten food, the metabolism of beneficial bacteria, and the decay of other organics such as plant debris or even dead algae. There is also a surprisingly high amount of phosphorus in our tap water. You control the accumulation of nitrogen when you perform a water change. Phosphates may be controlled by using phosphate-removal media in an external filter or by using reverse osmosis water for the aquarium.

Cleaner Tanks Grow Algae Faster!
This is a difficult concept to understand. It is important to remember that algae growth is a natural, normal process in any aquarium. All aquariums grow algae in one form or another. Some algae grows naturally in all ponds, lakes, rivers and oceans. If a section of the ocean floor is swept completely clean of life by a hurricane, the first organism to start growing back is algae. When you clean your aquarium and all of the decorations thoroughly, you leave no algae behind. In this bright, squeaky-clean environment, algae grows back more rapidly than it would if you left a small amount of algae somewhere in the tank. This is especially true in saltwater aquariums, where the bright white coral and gravel reflect more light, causing algae to grow faster. The reason for this is that if there is no algae left in the tank, there is no competition for nutrients that the algae feeds on. If you leave a few rocks or pieces of coral in a tank with a good growth of algae on them, that algae will consume nutrients in the water, which helps to control new growth.

The best way to illustrate this principle is to take a look at the two types of aquariums that are rarely plagued with heavy algae growth. These are: freshwater aquariums that are well populated with live plants; and saltwater live-coral reef aquariums. In these aquariums, the plants in freshwater tanks, and the photosynthetic corals, anemones, and other sessile invertebrates in reef tanks, compete with algae for light and nutrients. As algae is a relatively primitive organism, it doesn’t stand a chance when competing against the more advanced plants or photosynthetic corals in these types of aquariums. It is actually better for your aquarium to allow some algae to exist somewhere in the tank, especially if your aquarium has chronic algae problems.

What About Algae-Eating Animals?
In freshwater aquariums there are a few species of algae-eating fish and snails that can help to keep algae under control. Freshwater snails can breed and over-populate a tank, creating more of a nuisance than the algae they’re supposed to eat. The algae-eating fish do not feed exclusively on algae, and if well-fed, will ignore the algae growing in your tank. However, keeping one snail and/or a few small Plecostomus species of fish may help to control algae in-between our maintenance visits.

There are very few fish available for marine aquariums that will eat the algae that grows in an aquarium. Certain tangs, parrotfish, and blennies will graze on some of the algae, but not effectively enough to keep the tank clean. There are quite a few marine invertebrates such as certain crabs, hermit crabs, snails and sea urchins that can eat a lot of algae. Unfortunately, few of these invertebrates can be kept safely in the average saltwater fish-only tank. These animals are the natural prey of many desirable saltwater fish, and your fish would willingly eat many of these expensive “snacks” if given the opportunity. These invertebrates can be kept in a marine living-coral reef aquarium, where the fish are smaller omnivorous species that will leave them alone.

Our Wonderful Tap water (or Things You Don’t Want to Know)
Almost all municipal water treatment facilities treat our tap water to kill algae, bacteria and protozoa before it is filtered and delivered to our faucets. Not all of the chemicals that are used get filtered out. On any given day, our tap water may contain fluoride, iodine, chlorine, chloramine, and traces of: potassium permanganate, magnesium sulfate, nickel sulfate, copper sulfate, various heavy metal-nitrate complexes, as well as pollutants such as lead, PCB, mercury, and silver nitrate. Yummy! More of these chemicals are used during the fall and spring when temperature changes cause a phenomenon called “Biannual Turnover”. Temperature fluctuations cause the water at the bottom of lakes to rise, carrying silt and anaerobic material up into the water collected for our use. All of the chemicals used in tap water can be toxic to fish.

Although a good portion of our municipal plumbing systems have been modernized, nearly all of them still have old lead pipes in-line which can create deadly high-lead levels in our drinking water. The cost of replacing these pipes is astronomical, so another solution was found. Several years ago, water treatment plants started introducing a phosphorus compound into our tap water which binds to the lead in the pipes and coats them so that lead does not get into our water. Unfortunately, this has had the bad side-effect of creating rather high levels of phosphates in tap water. We have tested levels of over 0.50 parts per million in our tap water. Our test kits only measure up to 0.10 ppm, and we have had to dilute our samples by as much as ten times to achieve accurate readings! This high level of phosphates in the tap water has been a major cause of rapid algae growth in aquaria for the last few years. We lower these levels considerably by using phosphate-removal filter media in your external filter. However, every time you change the water, you actually add more phosphates to the aquarium. If the city uses more phosphorus from time to time, the algae can grow back almost immediately after your aquarium is cleaned.

Special Equipment to Control/Prevent Algae Growth
The Aquarium Professionals Group has installed many state-of-the-art aquarium systems which use various devices designed to prevent the growth of algae. Some of this equipment is impractical or too expensive for the average aquarium owner. The various equipment and/or techniques that can be used are: 1) Ultraviolet Sterilizers; 2) Ozonization; 3) Reverse Osmosis; 4) Resin Exchange Filters; 5) Algae Scrubbers; and 6) Using Reverse Osmosis, Bottled or Distilled Water for Water Changes.

We discuss all of the above filtration and water-treatment techniques in our newly expanded filtration section. The use of reverse osmosis water for the aquarium will prevent any excess phosphates or other chemicals from getting in the aquarium, thereby helping to control algae.

What You Can Do to Help Prevent Algae Growth
It is normal for algae to begin growing back in an aquarium within three weeks after the tank is cleaned. Please keep in mind that light and nutrients in the water are the major causes of algae growth. There are several ways that you can help control the re-growth of algae in your aquarium:

Don’t overfeed your aquarium.

If a fish dies, remove it immediately. Decaying matter creates high levels of nutrients in the water, causing rapid algae growth.

Keep one or several pieces of rock or coral in your marine fish-only tank that is never cleaned. Allowing a controlled amount of algae to exist in the tank will provide competition for new algae growth.

If you use decorative coral, bleach the coral in your marine fish-only tank every other month instead of every month. This works on the same principle as leaving some algae in the tank.

If you do not already have an external canister filter on your aquarium, install one. By using large quantities of chemical removal material in these filters, you can help prevent algae growth. Protein skimmers in marine tanks also help to reduce algae growth in the aquarium.

Unless your aquarium already has one, install an ultraviolet sterilizer on the tank. Besides controlling parasites in the water, these devices also kill algae cells in the water before they can grow in your tank.

Remember whenever you do attempt any type of dog training technique that the most important rule to never forget is constant repetition. Repetition is what teaches them and if you truly stick with it and enforce it every single time, then before you know it you will have on hand a very well trained and well behaved dog, which you should be so very proud of. Dog training will never be something easy and not for anyone, however, anyone is capable of properly training their dog, if they really put their mind into it.

There are several different ways that you can go about teaching your dog how to sit whenever you tell him to and it is important for you to try a few different techniques with him and once you are seeing that he is listening to you finally, then you will know which technique to stick with. Some people can teach their dogs to sit just by saying it over and over and gently pushing down on their backside and once they do it then they are given a treat or a great deal of praise. Others find that taking something that the dog loves and kind of moving it slowly around their head and behind them, saying the word sit to them in a stern tone each time, works for them the best. It just depends on your preferences and what your dog responds to the best. Finding what works for you and your dog is what is important, do not let anyone else try and tell you how you should be doing it, if what you are doing does work. Advice is usually a good thing but for some reason there are those people that believe that they know what is best for you and your dog and sometimes that can really be annoying, so do what works for you okay.

Whenever you do decide to begin dog training your dog to teach them to sit for you, just remember to be patient with them because sometimes certain dogs might take a little bit longer to catch on than others would. Your dog can be your best little friend and when you do start seeing results from using your dog training techniques, you will just be totally excited and will be even more excited about showing it off to all of your friends and family members, so have fun with it!

Apart from it’s environmental qualities, bamboo seems to add a touch of the exotic and mystique whether it be flooring, window, furniture or clothing nature. It’s only natural it’s qualities are being recognized as a garden accessory which not only adds color to it’s surroundings but is light on the pocket as well.

Building a bamboo water fountain requires a little technical know however, kits will be accompanied by easy-to-follow building instructions. The biggest problem facing people is trying to sort out the style of fountain they need for their surroundings.

Bamboo Fountains

Obviously budget will play a role in the end choice. If you have never had experience with these type of fountains before then consider the best know type known as the Deer Chaser.

The Deer Chaser is a popular fountain with an interesting history. It was originally developed and used by Japanese farmers as a method to ward off wildlife. It’s probably the oriental version of a scarecrow with deer the primary target.

They are very effective in warding off animals because of the moving parts of the fountain.
Easy To Construct

Bamboo fountains are normally purchased in kit form but if you don’t have strong technical skills don’t worry, they are very simple to construct. Instructions are easy to follow and even attaching a pump which usually accompanies most kits, is relatively easy.

Depending on the intricacies of the fountain, you have the option of either including plants within the structure or for some of the larger models, fish. Apart from their exotic qualities, they are also used as amusement value.

Spinning features indispersed with the sound of running water and movable parts will ensure it’s one of the most noticed objects in any garden.

Feng Shui

The importance of bamboo water fountains in the world of feng shui cannot be underestimated. Their ability to bring a tranquil and peaceful quality to any surrounding environment whether indoors or outdoors, is one of the main reasons Feng Shui enthusiasts find them irresistable.

Because moving water is said to bring good luck and prosperity to it’s surroundings, the use of bamboo fountains is ideal within a home’s environment. The water is said to rejuvenate and move stagnant chi and add a proper balance of chi within that particular area. It makes sense; stagnant water will eventually become murky and lifeless but running water rejuvenates and refreshes.

This removal equipment is really very efficient and effective in those areas where people are suffering from heavy fall. If you are one of them then what are you waiting for? Right now go to your nearest shop and buy this ice cleaner equipment and say Good bye to this backbreaking job.

This will be great investment. It may possible reduce doctor’s bill by going easy on your back. There are some considerations to be thought about before you go in the market for a snow blower:

- Consider the amount of snow and its density that you will have to deal with. Also consider if the ice is fluffy or hard when you have to deal with it.

- Take your machine for a test drive. Some showrooms have arrangements for testing the blower in their back yard. Going for a demonstration gives you the feel of the machine.

This removal equipment is perhaps your most valuable piece of mechanized machinery that you own. So it requires regular servicing to ensure that it will perform just when you need it. If you will properly look after this cleaner then you will enjoy several winters of excellent response and performance from your blower. Well worth that additional investment if you do not want to be left stranded.

Apart from the obvious variety of single stage and a two stage machine there is the variety of drive. The gasoline powered drive and electric driven machines are available in the market.Gasoline engine driven machines are generally two stroke engines and are noisy and polluting. Electric driven machines have the disadvantage that their power is limited. They cannot be made as two stage machine. Where the snowfall is heavy, the electric machines will not be useful as the gas machines.

A big downfall of electric throwers however is that because it is electric, it has wires and therefore it restricts how far you can go with it. It is also less powerful too and that is why it is not generally good for when there it a lot of snow around. So, for people with bigger driveways and when there is a lot of snow, the electric thrower is generally not advised. The gas one may be bigger and noisier, but for larger amounts of ice you will be getting rid of it in no time.

One thing that you need to keep in mind is that the price will increase when the demand increases for the item, so during a blizzard is not the best time to purchase a snow blower at a discount. A single stage machine can cost any where around $300 to $850. A two stage machine can cost approximately around $1050 or more.